Brake and wheel plans:

Current brakes: (all stock)
Master cylinder and booster:    Cast iron MC, and vacuum operated booster
Proportioning and pressure control:    Stock combination valve
Front brakes:    11"x1" ventilated discs, single piston cast iron calipers
Rear brakes:     9.5" x 2" drums

Plans:

Master cylinder and booster:    Convert to manual brakes
Proportioning and pressure control:    Modified combination valve (remove/disable metering valve in front circuit), and a Wilwood adjustable valve in the rear circuit.

Front brakes:    I bought a complete '76 Caprice front suspension, with the larger K6141 lower ball-joints, the large A5 and A3 wheel bearings, 12"x1.25" ventilated discs, and single piston cast iron calipers. This is a great conversion if you want better brakes for little cash, and is a complete bolt-on deal. Other improvements are the 5x5" bolt circle, and an upgrade from 7/16" to 1/2" wheel studs.

Rear brakes:    I wanted 11"x2" drums in the rear, without the width of the station wagon axle. (~2" wider overall than the sedan/coupe axles). I already have a '76 Caprice sedan rear axle, but sadly it was as wide as the '77-up stationwagon axle. With the correct offset on the rims it will work anyway. (I hope a set of used 12" rear discs from a '91-'96 9C1 Caprice or '94-'96 Impala SS comes later sometime).

Wheels

The new brake parts requires rims with the bigger 5"x5 bolt circle, but the larger diameter is stronger and just a bonus. Besides, "boring" steel rims are cheap, and I like the look of black steel rims on these cars. The Cragar wheels pictured below are within budget, and can be had in 16"x10", 16"x12" and 17"x9" sizes. I will have to measure on the car first, but I hope to fit the 17"x9"s on the car. I want the same width front and rear, and hope the steel wheels clear the outer tierod so I can get as much backspacing as possible up front. The problem is that the rims/tires will hit the upper control arms and/or balljoints after that, then the tires/rims might hit the lower control arms, sway bar, frame, etc, so I have to measure carefully. I might sacrifice a little of the turning radius, for more rubber on the ground, but I'm also willing to notch the frame some for clearance. Homemade adjustable steering stops are planned. If the steel rims can't be had in the wanted offsets, I may have to get them altered here in Norway. Unsprung weight is not really the priority right now as I can't afford lighter wheels, I just want as much rubber on the ground as possible until then.